More Electrical Infrastructure

Today I picked up where I left off yesterday, adding a few more parts to the power distribution panel.

Populating the Panel

A few more items on the panel

Electrical Distribution Panel

It's getting a bit more crowded.

Next I started making a few parts to mount the audio amp and the low voltage warning.
Homemade Circuits

I decided to combine the two homemade circuits in an enclosure made from scrap aluminum.

Circuit Enclosure

This enclosure will provide mounting and short protection.

The next challenge was to cut a hole with the odd shape of the d-sub.
d-sub shaped hole

Here's how I cut an odd-shaped hole- drill the corners, then the dremel wheel to connect the dots.

The crowbar overvoltage module for the SD-8 doesn’t have any easy mounting options, so this is the best that I could come up with:
Crowbar Overvoltage

The clothespin holds the module while the JB Weld sets up, then I'll screw the small piece of aluminum to the distribution panel.

I also cut two more odd-shaped holes for the Dynon serial cables. These will be for firmware updates and that sort of thing.
Dynon Serial Holes

Two out of three- one for the D180, one for the D100, one to come for the HS34.

I allowed myself to become a bit distracted from electrical work to address a couple of other issues. First, the steel tabs that I made for the rudder cables were starting to rust. I took them off and dropped them into a bucket of phosphoric acid that I was also using to start prepping exhaust conduit parts.
Rusty Parts

Bare steel rusts quickly in the hangar.

I also installed the Dynon OAT probe. This is the probe version that connects to the D180, not the version that connects to the magnetometer. I wanted to put it somewhere with the minimum drag penalty and minimum damage risk, so I chose the spot right behind the wing strut junction. I figure that the air through there is going to be so turbulent that the drag penalty will be minimal, and it will be out of the way of birds and bugs.
Dynon OAT

Dynon OAT probe location

Next I drilled the control sticks for the push-to-talk switches.
Bearhawk Control Stick Wiring

This is just a pilot hole. The final hole has to be big enough to clear the switch.

Push-to-talk hole

This hole is right in the middle of the top of the stick. I'll cut a corresponding hole in the grip for the switch to protrude.

Today was a good day with lots of time in the shop. Several months ago I found that 4 hours was about all that I could work. Now it seems that I’m only limited by the need for food and restroom breaks, and weather extremes. I’d rather just be out there working all day.